Six big no-no’s of applying lash extensions

As any lash artist knows, applying lash extensions is an art that requires a lot of care and precision. Getting the application right is crucial, as even a small mistake can result in disastrous consequences. To do the best job possible for your clients, it’s worth knowing some of the common mistakes to avoid:

Isolation

If you don’t get isolation mastered, you will never be able to apply eyelash extensions correctly. When extensions aren’t isolated, the lashes will clump and stick together. This causes severe long-term damage to the natural lash, as they are all in different stages of growth.

While one natural lash is trying to grow and fall out, an incorrect application sticks to other lashes which are staying and are not yet ready to fall out. This creates a situation where some lashes pull back in growth and some push out, causing serious unseen damage to the skin.

Skin

If you stick the eyelash extension to the skin instead of the natural eyelash, you risk creating an allergic reaction. This may cause redness, itching, puffiness and blurred vision for your client.

Not only is this application completely incorrect, but it is also unsafe and dangerous.

Excess Glue

Applying too much glue is a big mistake for several important reasons. Not only does it look terrible, but it can also damage the natural eyelashes by causing them to bear too much weight. It also means the glue will take a long time to dry, leading to sticking and clumping. And, finally, you may also risk irritation to the eye from the fumes of the excess glue. Not the best result for a client you’re trying to impress!

Only a tiny amount of eyelash glue is needed to bond the extension to the client’s natural eyelash – there is no need to overuse or have clumps of eyelash glue at all. Overusing glue will not offer any advantage to eyelash extensions and it will only cause more issues and concerns for your client.

Weight

Lash extensions come in many different thicknesses, curls and lengths. If you choose a lash extension that is quite thick (for example a 0.25mm) and place that on a very fine, thin or weak natural eyelash, this will be a lot of weight for that natural lash to hold upright and stay in place.

Too much weight on a natural eyelash over a long period of time can cause permanent damage to the health and growth of the natural eyelash. Professional lash artists will assess their client’s lashes and then choose the correct thickness. With the correct lash, you should be able to provide your client with added volume, length and curl, without causing any extra pressure, weight or damage to the natural eyelash.

Length

The application of extensions that are too long for the clients to naturally hold up can cause long term damage to the hair follicle. The natural eyelash should be covering, or holding up, at least half to three quarters of the eyelash extension. For example, if the client’s natural eyelash length is 8mm we recommend adding 2-3mm to this, therefore using extensions around 10-11mm.

If a lash artist places a 13 or 14 mm lash extension on this natural eyelash it may cause twisting, drooping and long-term damage to the natural eyelash. Adding too much length is like adding too much weight, in that the natural eyelash cannot comfortably hold the extension in place. This puts the eyelash under a lot of strain and can cause unseen damage.

Placing eyelash extensions that are too long for your client’s lashes may also cause the extension to rub the skin above the eye, the brow bone, or along the socket area, making it itchy, red or swollen due to irritation.

When selecting the correct length, it’s also important to take into consideration your client’s lifestyle. For example, if your client wears reading glasses, extensions that are too long will touch the glasses, making them rub back and forth all day long. Again, this adds unnecessary pressure to the natural eyelashes. If you’re unsure, don’t be afraid to ask a few questions to help you figure out the correct length.

Placement

Extensions must be placed along the natural eyelash, 0.5mm-0.1mm away from the skin along the lash line. If the extensions are not correctly placed at the distance required, this can result in two issues.

First, you will be too far out along the natural lash, leaving a visible gap. This will make it look like the client has had 2 – 3 weeks of lash growth and they are requiring in fills.

Alternatively, if the lash extension is placed too close to the skin, you may have the opposite concern. In this case, the lash will rub every time that the client opens and closes their eye. Even blinking will feel like they have sand rubbing in their eye. This can be extremely uncomfortable and may even lead to swelling, redness and puffiness to the eye area.

As you can see, incorrect eyelash application can cause all kinds of issues to the eye area and skin surrounding it. To avoid causing serious damage, doing your research and having the correct training in lash application is crucial.

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